Christmastime is when I get to unplug from work by using up all the vacation time that I didn’t use throughout the year and spending time with family and friends, all the while celebrating the true meaning of the holiday. Add to it my Italian-American heritage, and it’s also a time to indulge in traditional treats I grew up with.

It likely comes as no surprise that food is an important part of any Italian-American celebrations. Even funerals. Especially funerals. Since I was a kid I could never figure out how, within a couple days of someone dying, the women of the family (and yes, it was usually only the women) were able to produce so much food. To top that, literal moments after they were dressed in black grieving at a funeral home, they are back at the house forcing food down my throat. But I digress, back to Christmas.

The Italian foods my family had around the holidays were on the sweeter side. Interestingly, my family never did the feast of the seven fishes that other Italians did. Why? Mainly because my Mom didn’t like half of the fishes, especially eel and baccala, the latter being salted cod. That was alright by me because and we made up for it on the other end of the taste spectrum. Here are a few of my favorite things for the end of the year. As I tell their tale, I will share how my family pronounced them with their Abruzzese dialect.

Pizzelles

If you’ve been a committed reader of The Hot Iron (and that term fits in so many ways), you know I have mentioned pizzelles (pronounced pit-ZELLS) before. Pizzelles are an Italian cookie made from simple ingredients; flour, sugar, eggs, butter and flavored and anise. There are other varieties of pizzelles, but for me anise flavored is the one only way to go. Although you can now buy them in some supermarkets, homemade using my Mom’s recipe is the tradition I am carrying on.

In recent years I have also adapted a grain-free, dairy-free version of Mom’s recipe, to which I am sure she would have approved. Using paleo/nut flour and maple syrup instead of sugar among other changes yield a quality cookie that allows me and the family to indulge in more (ok, maybe a little too much this year). This year I upped the game with a new pizzelle iron. Rather than using the non-stick one made in China I got on Amazon, I bought a pizzelle iron from an Italian-American founded company, made in Pennsylvania of cast aluminum, complete with my last initial engraved into the iron. This new addition to the family added an extra touch to the holidays.

Torrone

Torrone (pronounced tuh-RONE) is an Italian nougat and nut treat. As kids we would get the La Florentine torrone which came in small pieces wrapped in foil and in little boxes, with unique designs (and faces) for vanilla, orange and lemon. Of course you can’t just have one, and next thing you know the assortment box of 18 is all gone. That problem from my youth sadly still exists today, though the pieces are even smaller now. Torrone comes in other varieties, and this Christmas I tried a few other brands, however I went back to my old favorite (which my kids prefer as well). As some of the ingredients in torrone are on my quarantine list, I may explore making my own next year.

Baci

Baci (pronounced BAH-chee) are Italian candies made with dark chocolate and hazelnuts that recently turned 100. Baci is the Italian word for kiss, and each foil-wrapped treat contains a note – traditionally they were always about love, but these days they are famous quotes for some reason. Like torrone, Bacis are smaller and there’s fewer in a box, which for me is just fine as this treat that can be found at stores year-round is one I reserve for this time of year.

Panettone

Panettone (pronounced pan-e-TONE) is a sweet Italian bread that is made in a round loaf shape with dried fruits and wrapped in paper resembling a large cupcake liner. You slice the panettone (pie shaped or simple slices) and can eat it as is or toasted, the latter is what we always did. Again as most grains are something I deflect from these days I have found mini panettones at Trader Joe’s of all places, made in Italy and branded as Trader Giotto’s so I was still able to have a taste. I have even seen mini ones in Walgreen’s, however those are made in Brazil. By chance when buying local eggs at a Breadsmith artisan bakery I discovered they make panettones around the holidays, and theirs are made with a sourdough starter as well as slivered almonds. Despite my dietary preferences, this was a nice change to have a fresh-tasting panettone, as the store-bought ones have always been very, very dry.

Sfogliatelle

Sfogliatelle (pronounced sfo-ya-DELLS, plural) are toasted, flaky, Italian dessert filled with custard and candied fruit. Growing up we never ate cannolis and even when I had the opportunity to I would decline, much to the dismay of every non-Italian I know who assumes that’s all my people eat. Where I live in Wisconsin the closest Italian stores or bakeries are over 90 minutes away in Milwaukee, which is a good thing not to have these indulgences so close to home.

Growing up sfogliatelle were not exclusively a holiday treat, but by what could be called a Christmas miracle they are now. Several years ago we took a family vacation to Florida the week of Christmas, as we wanted to try a warmer climate for the holidays. As it so happened, we were at Universal Studios on Christmas Day. After getting through the mob at the front gate, I spotted a Today Show café (Universal is owned by Comcast that owns NBC) and a brief coffee break sounded good before taking on the park. As I placed our beverage order, in the display case in front of me was several varieties of pastries… and one sfogliatella! Needless to say, I ordered it and, believe what you want, but to me that was a certain sign my Mom, Aunts and Uncles were looking down on us and wishing us a Merry Christmas.

Deconstructing Christmas Treats

The holidays a conjure up a lot of meanings and thoughts at the end of the year, and a big one for me is nostalgia. I think back to growing up in an Italian-American household, complete with a lot of love and a lot of food, and the sweet treats at Christmastime were just as important as Santa and, of course, church. Even though the ingredients of these items are these days not among my favorite things, I am finding creative ways, coupled with moderation, to still carry on and pass along these cultural traditions, along with how my family pronounced them.

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This is from The Hot Iron, a journal on business and technology by Mike Maddaloni.

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